Reverse osmosis (RO) systems are widely used in residential settings to provide clean, purified drinking water. The installation of such a system requires careful adherence to manufacturer guidelines and local plumbing codes. This guide provides detailed instructions and technical considerations for installing a GE reverse osmosis system based on official documentation and installation procedures.
Introduction
Reverse osmosis systems are designed to remove impurities, contaminants, and dissolved minerals from water through a multi-stage filtration process. The installation of an RO system involves several key components, including the RO unit, pre-filters, post-filters, an automatic shut-off valve, and the necessary tubing and fittings. The installation must be carried out in accordance with local plumbing codes, and in some cases, a licensed plumber may be required.
The following sections outline the step-by-step process for installing a GE reverse osmosis system, including faucet installation, angle stop valve setup, tubing connections, and component placement. Additional considerations such as drain saddle installation, component maintenance schedules, and system placement are also covered.
Preparation for Installation
Before beginning the installation process, it is essential to verify that all components are present and undamaged. The following tools and materials are typically required for a GE reverse osmosis system installation:
- 3/8″ variable speed electric drill (2,500 RPM recommended for stainless steel)
- 1/8″, 1/4″, and 1/2″ metal cutting drill bits
- 1/8″, 1/4″, and 1/2″ concrete drill bits (for porcelain sinks)
- Phillips head screwdriver
- 6″ adjustable wrench
- Teflon tape and plastic tubing cutter
- Hammer and center punch
It is also important to review local plumbing codes, as some municipalities may require the installation to be performed by a licensed plumber. The RO system should not be installed in areas exposed to freezing temperatures, and if connecting to an icemaker or remote location, the tubing run should not exceed 12 inches to avoid the need for an additional delivery pump.
Faucet Installation
The first step in the installation process is to install the RO faucet. If the sink has a sprayer, it may be disconnected for faucet installation. A pipe cap or plug is necessary to seal the sprayer connection, or the sprayer can be left connected under the sink.
If drilling is required, a 2″ flat surface is needed, with a maximum thickness of 1-1/4″. When drilling into porcelain, enamel, ceramic on metal, or cast iron, precautions must be taken to prevent chipping or scratching. The following steps outline the faucet installation process:
- Mark the center of the mounting hole with a center punch for the 1/4″ pilot hole.
- Drill the necessary hole using appropriate drill bits for the sink material.
- Disassemble the faucet hardware from the threaded shank.
- Slide the chrome base plates and rubber washers up the shank to the faucet body.
- Feed the threaded shank through the sink hole and orient the faucet.
- From below the sink, slide a lock washer and hex nut over the threaded shank and tighten with a wrench.
- If possible, have someone hold the faucet from above the sink to prevent movement during tightening.
Angle Stop Valve and Tubing Installation
The angle stop valve connects the cold water line to the RO system and provides a means to shut off the water supply for maintenance. The John Guest Angle Stop Valve is commonly used and is designed to work with 3/8″ shut-off valves and riser tubes. In cases where the existing plumbing uses a larger size shut-off valve or riser tube, alternatives such as self-piercing valves, T fittings, or faucet adaptors may be necessary.
The installation procedure for the angle stop valve includes the following steps:
- Shut off the cold water supply using the angle stop valve located under the sink.
- Relieve the pressure by opening the cold water faucet.
- Using an adjustable wrench, disconnect the riser tube from the existing cold water shut-off.
- Move the tubing away from the valve to make room for the John Guest Angle Stop Valve.
- Connect the new valve between the cold water shut-off and the riser tube.
If the riser tube is made of copper, a bend may be necessary to accommodate the 2″ space required for the valve. Copper tubing can be bent easily by hand, while other materials may require alternative fittings.
Drain Saddle Installation
The drain saddle is used to connect the waste water line from the RO system to the drain under the sink. It is designed to fit around a standard 1-1/2″ OD drainpipe and should be installed above the p-trap and on the vertical or horizontal tailpiece. The drain saddle should not be installed near a garbage disposal to avoid clogging.
The installation process for the drain saddle includes the following steps:
- Remove the backing from the gasket and place the adhesive side against the fitting half of the drain clamp around the hole.
- Position both halves of the drain saddle on the drain pipe so the opening aligns with the drilled hole.
- Use a small drill bit to verify that the drain clamp is properly aligned.
- Secure the drain saddle clamp with the provided bolts and nuts, ensuring not to over-tighten and that there is equal space between the saddle halves on each side.
Initial Tubing Connections
For convenience in under-sink installations, it is advisable to complete the under-sink tubing connections at this stage. This includes connecting the tubing between the RO unit and the angle stop valve, the drain saddle, and the faucet. Proper routing of the tubing is essential to prevent kinks or obstructions that could affect system performance.
RO Component Installation
The RO system consists of several key components that must be installed in the correct order to ensure proper operation:
Pre-Filters: The first stage of filtration includes a melt-blown polypropylene sediment cartridge, which removes larger particles such as dirt, rust, and sediment. The second stage is a carbon block cartridge that removes chlorine and other chemical contaminants, protecting the RO membrane.
RO Membrane: The reverse osmosis membrane is a thin film composite membrane that removes dissolved minerals, metals, and salts. It is essential to push the membrane into the membrane housing as far as it will go to ensure a proper seal.
Post-Filter: The final stage of filtration is a post-carbon filter, which further removes any remaining impurities and improves the taste of the water.
The cartridges are provided in sanitary packaging, and it is recommended to wash hands or use gloves when handling them to maintain hygiene. The sediment cartridge is installed first on the inlet side, followed by the carbon block cartridge(s). The membrane is installed with the o-ring end first.
RO Unit Installation
The RO unit is typically mounted on either side of the sink, in the back of a cabinet, or in the basement. It is recommended to install the unit on the left or right side of the cabinet under the sink for easier access during maintenance. The unit is generally installed at the front of the cabinet, with the storage tank placed at the rear.
The bladder tank, which stores the purified water, can be placed within ten feet of the faucet and should be positioned where it is convenient and secure. Full tanks can weigh more than thirty pounds, so it is important to ensure that any shelving used is sturdy and stable. The bladder tank can be placed on its side or upright, depending on available space.
Maintenance and Replacement Schedule
To ensure optimal performance, the components of the RO system should be replaced according to the following schedule:
- Pre-filters (Sediment and Carbon Block): Replace once per year.
- RO Membrane: Replace every two years.
- Post-filter (Carbon): Replace once per year.
- Automatic Shut-Off Valve: Replace as needed, typically every few years depending on usage.
Regular maintenance is essential to maintain water quality and system efficiency. It is recommended to follow the manufacturer's guidelines for replacement and cleaning procedures.
Troubleshooting and Common Issues
During or after installation, users may encounter common issues such as low water flow, leaks, or poor water quality. The following troubleshooting steps may help resolve these issues:
- Low Water Flow: Check for kinks in the tubing, ensure all connections are tight, and verify that the angle stop valve is fully open.
- Leaks: Inspect all connections for proper tightening and ensure that Teflon tape is applied correctly.
- Poor Water Quality: Verify that all filters are properly installed and within their replacement schedule. If the issue persists, the membrane may need to be replaced.
If troubleshooting does not resolve the issue, it is recommended to consult the manufacturer or a qualified plumber for further assistance.
Safety and Compliance
The installation of a reverse osmosis system must comply with local plumbing codes and safety standards. It is important to verify that the system is installed in a location that is not exposed to freezing temperatures and that all components are securely mounted. The use of appropriate materials and fittings is essential to prevent leaks and ensure long-term performance.
Conclusion
The installation of a GE reverse osmosis system involves several key steps, including faucet installation, angle stop valve setup, drain saddle installation, tubing connections, and component placement. Proper planning and adherence to manufacturer guidelines and local plumbing codes are essential to ensure a successful installation and optimal system performance.
Regular maintenance, including the timely replacement of filters and other components, is necessary to maintain water quality and system efficiency. By following the detailed installation instructions and troubleshooting guidelines, users can ensure a reliable and effective reverse osmosis system for their home.